Roluos

作者: Sara莎拉

導讀Roluos Group是吳哥古跡裡以小吳哥為中心距離最遠的一處。廟宇遺址主要包括有PreahKo, Loei 和Bakong, 及零碎得無法辨認的小片區如Prasat Kandal Dpeum, Prasat O keak, Prasat Olok 和Prasat Prei Monti. Roluos Group在書中這樣被這樣記述的: “The monuments of Roluos, which served as Indravarman I’s capital, Haliharalaya, are among the earliest large, permanent temples build by the Khmers and mark the beginning of the age of Khmer classical art. B ...

Roluos Group是吳哥古跡裡以小吳哥為中心距離最遠的一處。廟宇遺址主要包括有PreahKo, Loei 和Bakong, 及零碎得無法辨認的小片區如Prasat Kandal Dpeum, Prasat O keak, Prasat Olok 和Prasat Prei Monti. Roluos Group在書中這樣被這樣記述的:

“The monuments of Roluos, which served as Indravarman I’s capital, Haliharalaya, are among the earliest large, permanent temples build by the Khmers and mark the beginning of the age of Khmer classical art. Before the construction of Roluos, generally only lighter (and less-durable) construction materials such as brick were employed. ”

Bakong是遺址中最大的部分,是標准的方形對稱式建築,由底部起大致分3大層級,中間的一層有5小層級,以石塔分隔遞進。拾級而上,在Bakong最高出環顧四周,這裡有著與小吳哥驚人的相似之處。東南西北四個方向分別有幽深通徑直達主廟,而這些道路也都隱藏在叢林深處。Bakong是這樣被推薦給游客的:

“Bakong is the largest and most interesting of the Roluos Group temples, and has an active Buddhist monastery just to th enorht of the east entrance. It

was build and dedicated to Shiva by Indravarman I.Built as a representation of Mt Meru, it served as the city’s central pyramid of sandstone, 60m square at

the base, flanked by eight towers (or what’s left of them)of brick and sandstone and by other minor sanctuaries. Several of the eight towers down below are still partly covered by their original plasterwork. The complex is enclosed by three concentric walls and a broad moat. There are well-preserved statues of stone elephants on each corner of the first three levels of the central temple. ”

在東面主入口的右側,有一寺廟。9點左右僧人們都起來了,有照鏡子的,刮胡子的,刷牙的,穿衣的,也有走到廟外與小學間的空地上散步的一兩個。寺廟外圍一米高的樹叢分隔,裡面開有雞蛋花。一個年輕的僧人批好衣服後邀請我進廟參觀。廟分3個部分,主殿暫不容許進,我們在殿外的門廊和僧舍外走動。門廊拐彎一直延伸至主殿,頂部檐部均是以釋迦牟尼為主的佛教故事。他們努力齊心用英文跟我解釋。偶爾我說出一個內容,他們詫異得像找到同門弟子。門廊上看得出近期新上彩的部分,也有被烈日長期照射剝落的碎片。這裡的僧人很隨和,說來Roluos Group的人不多,但這裡卻是非常值得來參觀的地方。我表示十分同意。

寺廟與小學直線距離不到50米。學校裡只看到兩個側面完全開放的教室。孩子們在課堂上鬧哄哄,兩位老師巡堂走動。鈴聲過後,孩子們幾乎傾巢而出,在門前唯一一家小販處買課間餐。有蔬菜三文治,甜圈,還有很收歡迎的裝滿黃醬的面包。

這裡看到的景像有些奇怪,不過應該也已存在許久。這裡有他們精神的圖騰,相互間相處得和諧,滿足,其實還有其他什麼更為重要?

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