瑞士-少女峰-Interlaken-2

作者: 明天的晴

導讀今天上午有些人就陸續離開了,12點要check-out我也是先去聽了liquidity session, break 的時候喝了杯咖啡。就離開了,臨出門碰見Anderson的yz,聊了一會兒。然後回hotel收拾東西。最後確認了一下從Zurich到Interlaken的火車時間表。中午沒有直達的,必須要到瑞士首都Bern轉車。Zurich的火車站好大,光站台就25個還多。我到7站台。發現我來的時候是到的8站台。也在樓下看了看,因為reception告� ...

今天上午有些人就陸續離開了,12點要check-out我也是先去聽了liquidity session, break 的時候喝了杯咖啡。就離開了,臨出門碰見Anderson的yz,聊了一會兒。然後回hotel收拾東西。最後確認了一下從Zurich到Interlaken的火車時間表。中午沒有直達的,必須要到瑞士首都Bern轉車。Zurich的火車站好大,光站台就25個還多。我到7站台。發現我來的時候是到的8站台。也在樓下看了看,因為reception告訴我說,火車站有商店可以逛逛,不過我看了一下,也沒有什麼。就先去等車。車來了以後,發現還是雙層的。瑞士的火車也是我坐過最好的火車了。比Virgin的要寬敞。1個多小時到了Bern,從4站台換到5站台。上了到Interlaken的車。車開了不久,雪山突然出現在我的面前,一點心理准備都沒有,我也不知道是surprise還是沒反應。然後過了Thun,碧玉一般的湖水就大片地跳到了我的窗前。湖邊有一些別墅,想像這些人在窗口看著湖水的感覺,一定很好,午飯以後,他們還可以泛舟到湖心去釣魚,晚飯用新釣的魚做湯。我得好好干活,才能賺錢度假時候住到這裡。不過我釣魚技術還不太靈光,我也不知道能不能找到會燉魚的美女太太來和我坐到船的甲板上在湖心看《lake house》。Anyway,這時候,Interlaken轉眼就到了。 出了站台,一股味道撲面而來,是清新的來自雪山的空氣,不,是大騾子大馬的味道。原來這裡還有馬的出租車。我憑著感覺,走了向了市中心。街上人很多,亞洲人很少,不過很多店鋪都有日文和韓文的招牌。走了一會兒,到了個十字路口,我感覺我book的hotel就是在裡,可是怎麼也看不到。只好往回走,到店鋪裡問了一下,她們告訴我,就是那兒。我折回去,發現原來門在稍微往裡一點的地方。進去以後,開了房間,又是4樓。電梯很特別,是需要自己開門,然後進去把柵欄拉上的那種。估計有年頭了。雖然門是電子鎖,但一進來,發現和Zurich的沒法比,太舊了。而且被罩,枕頭套還得我自己動手套。舟車勞頓,先洗了一個澡。然後精神抖擻肚子空空地出去溜達了一下。到一個飯店吃了一個土豆泥和豬肉。看來我吃土豆泥是一把好手,已經連吃好幾天了。吃著土豆泥,喝著咖啡,這時候天氣突然變得山雨欲來。看著街上的人群,數了數有幾個和我一樣是一個人來的,還有不少,過了10個。山區的天氣變化莫測,剛才才是艷陽高照,一陣風後,雨就下了起來。吃著美味的午餐--雖然已經下午4點了--看著街上的游客行人,兩邊的店鋪和擺在外面的明信片和牛鈴,抬頭就是山峰。 應該慢慢品味,不過那樣飯菜可就涼了。有時候此浪漫和彼浪漫不能兼得。吃完飯以後,又往反方向走。兩邊的店鋪和蘇黎世就不一樣了,蘇黎世多是賣衣服的,這裡的多面向旅游者。瑞士什麼最有名呀?軍刀,牛鈴,巧克力,手表。一路向動走,有邊是很大的一個park。走著走著,又下雨了,傘沒帶。路過商店的時候,進去買了一把軍刀,讓包裝好,禮物。因為亞洲的游客越來越多,店鋪裡都有會說中文的,韓文的,日文的店員。回到hotel以後,正好趕上一個日本的旅行團,他們一見我和見著親人一樣,都笑眯眯地說日語,我心想,雖然我大學時候二外是日語,可是現在除了“八個亞路”和“撒有那拉”之外,都不太會呀。我就說i cannot speak japanese。他們還挺不好意思,有個會說英語的問我:這電梯咋用啊。 怕4點的晚飯有點早,又去麥當勞買了一個套餐,9.9瑞士法朗。站在自己的陽台上,右邊是個小廣場噴泉,對面是十字路口,熙熙攘攘的人群,對面的樓後面,是高山。仿佛自己也融化在這背景之中了。 瑞士的電視台主要是他們的官方語言:德語,法語。英語只有CNN,和BBC PRIME. 晚上還有CNBC(Finance). 晚上還有escort或者porn的廣告。 Interlaken是極限運動的中心。從跳傘,滑翔傘,滑翔機,漂流,攀岩 etc 一應俱全。這可比Alton Tower的機器要challenging很多。

Mountain of Virgin 瑞士少女峰游記 It rained all night. My window face the traffic island of Interlaken. There were many people walking on street until 23:00.I slept at 2:00 after watching CNN. I left my curtain not fully closed. Light of cars reflected on the ceiling of my room. I thought sunshine in the morning might wake me up, but it was still dark when my alarm rang. It would not be a sunny day. There was no sense to catch the earliest train then. 9點半再起來的時候,天已經亮了,不過雲層很低,路上還有人打傘。<Lonely Planet>在介紹Jungfraujoch(Mountain of Virgin)的時候,強調:Good weather is essential 。從陽台上看下午,路上的行人明顯少了。下樓吃飯,Interlaken這個飯店的服務和設備,包括早餐,都沒有Zurich(蘇黎世)的好。吃了兩個面包,一碗水果酸奶,兩杯咖啡,一些熏肉。 The first TV Channel in my room is introduction of tourist attractions around Interlaken, and the live camera of moutain peaks in Jungfrau Region. Since yesterday, the images from Jungfraujoch is nothing expect snowflakes hitting the camera lens. I went to the reception, ask her advice. "It really depends on you. Some people may also enjoy the snows" she said. "definately not me" I thought. Two years ago, when I went to Tiltlis, anther famous jokul in Sitzerland, the weather was great, and visibility is great. Why I use "and"? Doesnt good weather guarantee visibility? Thats the story I will tell later. Anyway, I cannot stay in hotel. Iset off to train station. There are two railway stations in Interlaken. Yesterday, I arrived at West Station. Trains to the mountain depart at Ost Station in the east of city. 昨天差點就走到火車站了,到了一個日本在這裡修建的一個“友誼庭”。今天抬起頭,就能看到雲在路邊大山的山腰上。路邊的山可能只有幾百米,就已然要沒入雲裡了,真不知道3450米的地方會怎麼樣。走到車站,還真不近。領了個號,排隊。買票,售票員說172法郎。書上已經提醒了,說貴,但是是一生只有一次的難忘之旅。票買了以後,有效7天。我還以為是可以坐7天,她說不,只能上一次,下一次,7天是有效期。這就讓我更謹慎了,因為我畢竟還要待一天,如果今天雲太厚,就去先坐船好了。明天天氣再差,估計也最多和今天一樣,除非下雨,不過山上已經一直在下雪了。 I went to the platform hesitating take it today or tomorrow. I went back to the ticket office and asked her weather forcast. She told me: It is cloudy today (of course I know); Sun will come out a little bit in the afternoon (great). “how about weather tomorrow?" I aksed. "It will be similar as today"(how different it could be!) The train was on 10:20; 2 minutes left when I went back to the platform again. People all already boarded the train. I stared the sky trying to find out any clue. Suddenly, a gleam of sunshine came out from the cloud! I rushed on the train. Seats were mainly occupied. I found a set opposite an Australian couple. They were so so so love each other: holding each others hands and staring each. He put his jaket to her. 先介紹一下路線,一般是個loop的行程:Interlaken Oak - Lauterbrunnen - Kleine Scheidegg - Jungfraujoch. 要換三次車。下山的路線是 Jungfraujoch - Kleine Scheidegg - Grindelwald - Interlaken Oak。 開始的一段,還是平原。可以看到高山融雪形成的河流,清澈無比。轉眼就到了Lauterbrunnen,下車換車。氣溫還沒有降太多,只是有點下雨了。到Kleine Scheidegg的路上,就開始爬山了。和普通的火車不同,爬山的火車在兩道鐵軌的中間,有鋸齒和火車上的齒輪咬合來提供動力或者制動。爬山的角度很大,兩旁零零散散的房屋,轉眼一個個都到了視線以下。到了Kleine Scheidegg以後,氣溫就低了很多,已經到了2061米。這個站不算小,還有餐廳和商店。我進商店看了一下,看到已經開始賣帽子和手套了。我帶了一個防水的外套。在T-shirt外面套了一個polo的襯衣。根據我上次上雪山的經驗,這樣已經夠了。雪山已經近在眼前。一陣雲飄來,遠處吃草的牛也藏到了雲霧裡,只能聽到叮叮咚咚的牛鈴聲。 The rest of railway is mainly built in a 10-mile tunnel which opened in 1912 and which cost 300 workers 16 years to construct. There are two railway stations in the tunnel: one is Eigerwand, ideal place for climbers, one is Eismeer. At 12:37, 2 hours after departure, I arrived the top of Europe. Out of the station in tunnel, there is a lobby in which highest shop and post office in Europe locate. I bought three cards to my cousins who are going to university this year, and to my supervisor. After posting them out, I went upstairs for lunch. There are several restaurants in the main building, the palace in the top of Jungfraujoch. I went to self-service restaurant. Things are much more expensive than them in the town. Lipton ice tea is 1.5 SF in the town, whereas 5 SF here. I chose curry meat with rice, and a cup of coffee. Then, my phone rings, I did not expect there was still mobile signals. From the window, I watched outside, exactly as the image showed in the live camera I watched in hotel. But it is sunny! Surprisingly, sunshine cannot dispel the thick fog. Ok, that’s the rule only valid on plain. It was said that if the visibility is ok, people can see as far as France, Germany, and Italy.吃飯以後,再看一下山上的地圖,穿過一個長廊之後,到了一個大電梯口。這是通往Sphinx Observation Terrace的地方。它有3571米高。電梯非常快,每秒6米多。上去以後,一樓通往外面的門還是關著的,有點失望。難道只能在屋裡看窗外白茫茫的一片。再上了一層,一陣雪飄了進來,原來這個觀景台可以出去!出去以後,風雪交加,趕緊把墨鏡戴上!白茫茫的一片,只能看到平台的下面是不見低的深淵。再平台的邊上,是一個歐盟的旗幟。還有一直鳥,在這麼高的風雪中,濕漉漉地梳理著自己的羽毛。(服裝廠應該和這只鳥談談,這估計是羽絨衣最好的廣告)。我估計已經喪失掉寫散文的能力了,這時候應該歌頌一下這只鳥的頑強和拼搏的精神,多好的機會。沒有人給我照相,我就把相機放到一個照明燈的欄杆上,自拍了幾張。(放心,掉不下去,它很安全)。 I just realised it was really enjoyable that snowflakes hit on my face in August. I stayed there for a while, then back to the channel going for glacier. On the end of channel, a small gate giving into a white and icy world! I put on my jacket and walked up to outside. Wind blew strong; snow fell more heavily. I can only see 20 meters ahead. The snow was thick. Thanks to my Clark shoes, suitable for all conditions. I saw some skiing on the ski run. I kept walking ahead. This way is to Monchsjoch Hut (3650m) which is 45 minutes walking distance in good weather. After I passed a highland, I cannot see anyone in front of me or behind me. What I can see is only the route sign on the roadside. Without them, I would definitely lose my way in such weather. Gradually, the snow became more and more thick and soft because it snowed more heavily and because there was nobody walking there recently making me walked harder and harder. 這樣的風雪放到冬天,不一定受歡迎,在8月,卻是難得的享受。上次晴朗的Titlis山峰固然是難忘,這次的風雪卻更刺激。在3000多米海拔的風雪中,雖然我每天做5000米長跑,走一會兒還是很喘。好幾次都差點滑倒。不過能在這麼漂亮的地方滑倒,也是一件享受的事兒。俯下身,抓了一把雪,感覺那麼不真實。 Back to channel, I walked to the last two places to visit. One is a icy palace, one is a plateau. Not only the wall, but also the floor of the ice palace was ice. There were also some icy sculptures to take picture with. The Plateau is another place to touch and feel snow.

Boat Tour I woke up around 8:30 hearing raining outside. Breakfast was still served at after 9:00. There is two lakes on both sides of Interlaken: Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. On my way from Bern to Interlaken on the rain 2 days ago, I saw the Lake Thun and the train stopped in several towns on the shore of it. Lone Planet confirmed that Thunersee has more resorts and villages clustered around it, whereas rugged Brienzersee offers fewer diversions, although it is the cleanest lake in Switzerland and ideal for angling. I asked the reception which one is better. She said it depended on my time; tour of Lake Thun took longer time. I decided to take it only because the haven for Thun tour is nearer. I walked to the haven which is next the West railway station. I bought a return ticket from Interlaken to Thun cost 25 SF. The journey to Thun was from 11:08 to 13:24. The boat came on time. It was smaller than I expected. I found a seat on deck. The lake was limpid with virid sheen. 再看兩旁的高山,郁郁蔥蔥挺拔的大樹。因為他們是深綠色的,山峰的顏色反倒沒有湖水好看。船開出一段走出港口以後,碧綠的草地出現在了茂密的叢林間。在草地上,點綴著一座座的別墅。岸邊是公路,鐵路和高架電線。這在別的地方再尋常不過的背景,放到湖邊,卻特別的突兀。岸邊的別墅都和私人船塢,掩映在叢林間。這時候,之間半山腰有一座房子,原來是座賓館。一道瀑布還從賓館的下面散了下來。打到碧綠的湖水上,泛起珍珠一樣的水花。天鵝在岸邊不遠的地方悠閑地劃水,岸邊草地上的小狗和穿著白色休閑衣服的女主人散步。在籬笆外是工人在清理路上的樹葉。近處的山峰倒映在湖水裡,遠處的山頂還有積雪。沿途要經過幾個小村鎮,比較大的是Spiez,據說有瑞士最美麗的花園。這些村鎮的規模比想像的要大,有些還有樓房的賓館。因為他們不止靠船和外面聯系,而是靠公路,而且有的還通火車。看到在這裡住下的游客,感嘆他們住Interlaken一抬頭就能看到雪山還不滿足,還要住到這裡一低頭就是無邊的清澈湖水。村莊的窗戶和欄杆,都點綴著盛開的鮮花。常春藤爬滿了教堂的外牆。宮殿一般的別墅外,還有自己的噴泉。喝了一杯咖啡吃了一個面包以後,到站了。 On the journey, an old couple from Israel seat opposite me. It rained a little bit. With the wind, it is cooler in the lake. They hugged each other and hands held. They said Switzerland is the place they like most. Compared with Israel, there is no war in Switzerland, and weather in Switzerland is much cooler. They said Israel is a admixture country: people are from all over the world. Girls are pretty and smart because their parents are from different race. The lady said she was from Lebanon and her husband was from Roumania. Their son-in-law also with mixed origins: Japan and Poland. They strongly suggest me plan an Israel-girl-oriented visit to Israel. They said the read some mathematical books for students at primary school in Arab countries. The questions in the book are like: “There are 25 Jews. After killing 7 of them, how many left?” They concerns such education brings down anything but peace. Boat arrived Thun, on lake’s namesake town. The railway station and information centre are just next to each other. I got a map of the town indicating a tour route to follow. Compared with Interlaken, Thun is less like a tourism city. People walking on street are more like local people. My estimation might be wrong, but I don’t think tourists wear business suits. Shops are more for local people. Few of them sell Swiss keepsakes. I went to Schloss museum, the top of Thun. It was 5 SF admission fee for student. The museum shows the evidence that people lived in the Thun area about 2500 B.C., Late Stone Age. It also introduced that the name Thun is derived from the Celtic “Dunum” and is used to designate a settlement fortfiled by a palisade. Four Norman corner turrets provide a excellent vision for the whole city and mountains beyond. 從博物館出來以後,就開始下雨,Thun老城不大,一會兒就走完了。市中心的購物街Balliz基本也不是只針對游客的,要是買衣服或者買書瑞士應該不是最好的選擇吧。Aare河把Thun成了三部分,一路上過了好幾次橋。河流湍急地流過鮮花裝點的一座座橋梁。

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