山水西南 1往事如歌
往事如歌，余音繞梁而三日不絕也。
這是除了本學期以外課業負擔最輕的一個學期，也是我學習得最累的一個學期。我時常問自
己，為什麼要為了這可望而不可及的事情或目標付出如此的代價？這似乎是一個多選題，而其中的
一個選項就是：為了能在這學期心安理得地出行。
一個人走在南大附中（注47：這裡指南開大學附屬中學）寂靜的樓道裡和積雪的操場上，有
一種如釋重負的感覺，為了這兩天半的速戰速決，我與科技館的後門相伴了多少個白日；我不惜金
錢與疲勞，往返於津寧兩地；還有那在地校、河海以及新興影院（注48：新興影院，在天津）的日
子；如今，這一切總算都結束了。
楊亞敏如一顆流星，突兀地出現在我的生活中，首次乘飛機的興奮與快感真的被她衝淡了許
多，而從浦東機場到上海站，這斑斕的夜上海也在她喋喋不休的敘談中失卻了光澤。火車終於到了
杭州，耳根也清靜了許多，而她不知是否如她所說在我將要工作的地方工作。
進退不得地擠在招聘會的人海中，我終於親自體會到了人生的艱辛與不易。從第二次乘飛機
到最終簽約，其間有一些事情，諸如在工行與李芊（注49：李芊，女，我的高中文科班同學）和王
志惠（注50：王志惠，女，我的高中文科班同學）的邂逅，中信的橫插一杠，而最令我心動的還是
在嫂嫂辦公室實習的那位女生，嫂嫂跟我說那些話時頗漫不經心，而將心比心的我油然對那女生產
生了一絲同情甚至歉意。真實的社會就是如此，溫情永遠只是面紗。
俗話說：桂林山水甲天下。有人不以為然，說從桂林到貴陽的火車上，都能見到那種山，那
麼，西南山水甲天下，該不錯吧。
2 Goldden & Dark Green Kunming
It’s the longest train travel in my life that in the train No.K155 from
Nanjing West to Kunming. Not long after setting out, a young attendant came to
blows with an Anhui man, and another older one, often deceived the passenger to
buy soft berth tickets.
The man who sat with me, often cough and spat to the ground. I disliked
him, but he sat there until Guiyang was arrived. So I was in trouble for a long
time.
Through three days’ travel, I reached at Kunming , checked in the guest
house of the industrial and commercial bank .The other day, I went to Gaoqiao
by the No. 6 bus, then I began climbing Xishan Mountain. Passed the Huating
Temple and the Nie’er’s Tomb, I arrived at the Dragon Gate at last. The
Dianchi Lake could be seen here.
In the “Travel in China by Yourself”, it said you must took one day in
World Horti-EXPO Garden, so I thought I must go to other places of Kunming
today.
Leaving Xishan Mountain, I went to Daguan Building. It was not so great as
what I imaged.
In the bus from Daguan Building to Yuan Tong East Rd, I saw the Gold & Dark
Green Square, where situated the Golden Horse Memorial Archway and Dark Green
Cock Memorial Archway. Golden Horse and Dark Green Cock is the symbol of
Kunming.
But I couldn’t find No. 10 bus there, so I had to walk to North Railway
station to go to Golden Palace. When I walked out of it, it’s still early, so
I went to the Military Hall of Yunnan Army and Kunming Museum, which situated
the Sutra Tower of Dali.
When I was waiting for the bus to railway station, I thought of the
Southwest United University（注51：西南聯合大學，其校址即現在的雲南師範大學）, why
did not I go there? With a little trouble, I found the monument and classroom
of SUU. And then I studied in the classroom of Yunnan Normal University, the
classroom was so shabby that which of NJU was better than it.
In the waiting room and in the train, I lived with two travel groups, one
is from Zhejiang and the other Beijing. I was tired after a day’s rush and
felled into sleep soon on the berth.
3大理風月
一出大理站，等待我的除了著名的下關風，還有鋪天蓋地的穿著白族服裝的導游，我於她們
倒不甚反感，但我的計劃中大理只有今日的半天，所以一日游是不能參加的，加之這邊天亮得比東
部要晚得多，我只有回到候車室靜待天明。
大理站前寬闊的馬路和遠方積雪的蒼山令人豁然開朗，但在洱海公園，相機卻給了我當頭一
棒，最終在黃果樹，我以更大的代價弄清了所謂原委，此乃後話。
大理古城確應算座古城，從倒影公園出來，搭車赴蝴蝶泉，蝴蝶泉誠如書上所言，門票價格
不菲，卻無甚意思，不過我確實在這裡看到了一只蝴蝶，當然，只有一只。
很難想像從這路一直走下去便到了拉薩，但如今去麗江的車已不走這條路了。我趕回下關，
終於乘上開往麗江的車，走新修的大麗一級公路，3個小時便到了麗江。
4 Lijiang, Full of Affection
I went to the ancient city as soon as I finished checking in, thought I
lost my way there, I was really conquered by the quaint buildings and limpid
stream around them. Water is the sprit of the city.
Sifang Street was the busiest section of the town, many foreigners lived
there. I had supper in a restaurant along the stream. Far from the modern
civilization, it’s the best place where you could relax your heart. By the
next dinning table sitting two students who were sketching. Lijiang , was a
paradise of the artists.
Night was coming, I went to the Hall of Naxi Ancient Music, but before it I
entered my name for the one-day’s travel of the Yulong Snow Capped Mountain.
The Naxi Ancient Music was lost for a long time until Mr. Xuanke, who was
the president of the Naxi Ancient Music Association, found and compiled it
again. Xuanke was the chair of the concert, he was a humorous man and his
English was good. Every day ther were a lot of foreigners went there, and
today, what’s more, some Japanese came here because they came here to invite
the orchestra to go to Japan. Until now, they had been to many countries of the
world. So Mr. Xuanke said that they were better than the Chinese Football Team
because they had already been out to the world from China. The members of the
orchestra, much of them were very old and some would pass away every year, then
their photo would be hung up. But some young man and woman, played well also.
They gave the audiences an excellent performance and I enjoyed myself that
night.
Except the guide and the driver, there were only 4 men in our group. Two
airline hostesses from Dalian, a lady from Beijing and I. The guide, whose name
was ZhangYu-jie, she said we could called her Little Zhang. I didn’t know she
was younger than me or not and I still call her Miss Zhang. She dressed Naxi
clothing but she was Han nationality. The two girls from Dalian said that a
Naxi driver almost cheated them yesterday. The driver said he knew him and he
was Han nationality not Naxi.
At the side of the road to Yulong Mountain, there was a monument for
HongKong People who denoted money to Lijiang People after the earthquake took
place some years ago. But all Chinese People helped Lijiang in that moment, why
a monument could remember only HongKong People? Miss Zhang told us because
HongKong People sew money in the clothes which were given to Lijiang as they
worried that if they gave money directly, the money would be corrupted by the
leader, then when the Lijiang People received the clothes, they got the money
with a lot of surprise and grate. It could be seen that HongKong was really a
part of China, as the HongKong People knew Chinese so well.
With the moving of our bus, Yulong Mountain became closer and closer. Miss
Zhang said we met a very good weather, one girl said because we were all from
far away, from North. To iceberg garden, first, you must change to get in the
big bus of the park, then go there by cableway. When we arrived at last, I was
very excite with nothing unwell. Two girls played with each other. I walked
with the lady, she was a native of Anhui and graduated in East China Water
Conservancy College, now called Hohai University(注52：河海大學) .She entered a
travel group in Beijing, but the group was composed of only herself. She said
that, in Dali, the guide lead only one woman, her, to play. But after a while,
she felt not well, so I climbed in the stair myself until 4571M. A soldier was
there who stopped travelers climbing, as it was danger above.
We came back to the rest room on time. One girl, felt very bad, maybe she
played too violent, so we went down soon.
After lunch, we went to White River. It’s so beautiful a piece of picture
in front of me. In this place, one girl threw her camera down to the river with
careless. Then DongBa Garden, I thought I shouldn’t like this kind of place,
but the guide there really taught me a lot.
Had seen the frescoes in Baisha, we went back. Two girls let Miss Zhang go
shopping with them in the ancient city. I let the driver drive to the
Heilongtan Park, in which I went to DongBa Civilization Museum freely. Then I
went to the ancient city again, and I lost my way again as yesterday.
I really didn’t want, but I really must, said Bye to Lijiang, Lijiang’s
building, Lijiang’s street, Lijiang’s water, Lijiang’s mountain, and Miss
Zhang, a native of Lijiang, a good guide, a good girl.
5建水文藻
一進汽車站，率先入目的是一輛發往虎跳峽的車。我怎能不心中一動？要不要去虎跳峽呢？
大連的兩個空姐今天是去的，她們還希望張小姐作導游，小張說你們可以跟旅行社提要她去。但一
望車上並無游客模樣的人，最終還是放棄了。但坐在發往下關的車上，心中總有一絲失落感，虎跳
峽雖原本不在計劃中，但有此一機會，終而放棄，未免可惜。我思來想去，竟起了恢復建水的念
頭，此意一生，原本寬松的行程立時緊張，緊張得喜歡緊張的我都有點緊張了。
車在將到下關時忽的停了，原來前方出了事故，而坐在我旁邊的一個女孩居然給我糖吃，而
我居然吃了，但她問我到下關去干什麼，我則搪塞了過去，其實這個問題還真不好答，如果告訴她
我到下關是為了去巍山玩，不知她會說些什麼。不過女孩是在大理古城下的車，她是大理人？亦或
去玩？管她呢，隨她去吧。
找到去巍山的車站頗費了番功夫，好在最終我終於在半日之內解決了巍山，巍寶山的建築確
實很有特色，不過最難忘的還是檢票員在以為我是南開而得知我是南大的學生後發出的“哇塞”
聲，我著實有些“受驚若寵”（裴平語），南大在國內確實很少得到與其地位相當的贊美。
在大理站的候車室，又見到了那個浙江的旅游團，不知她們這些天都去了哪裡。原本打算花
一天的時間去逛世博園，但北京的女士說她在裡邊只待了2個小時，而要去建水，恐真的只能待2個
小時了。
雖然來得早了些，還沒有開門，卻因此趕上了原先不知道的開園儀式，我起初一直搞不懂世
博園何以能在世博會後熱鬧至今，通過這個開園儀式，似乎有了答案，是一種先進的經營理念在維
系著這“九九世博會”之後的“永久世博園”。北京女士所言端的不錯，世博園這地方，若要好好
看，一天也不夠，但大體上瞧瞧，2個小時足以了。而在我心中留下印像最深的，還不是各國或各
省市的什麼園藝，而是直轄市展廳中的那幅移花接木的照片，站在這高樓林立的“今日天津”照片
前，我真有一種愧為天津人的感覺，虧他們想的出來！
從昆明到建水，先借用了一段昆玉高速到通海，然後便開始翻山，有一段路，車就在山崖邊
行使，下面便是萬丈河谷，我方知無名英雄的偉大，如修這路的人。
建水，隸屬於紅河州，沈陽還因下雪封閉機場，這邊早已夏意濃濃了。燕子洞，名不虛傳，
攀岩表演更是令人叫絕，沒有任何工具和保護設施而在山岩上攀來爬去，比日後龍虎山的懸棺表演
更勝了一籌。文廟，與建水一中毗鄰，這裡可以看到中午還在刻苦念書的學生，以往看到這些學
生，我不過為她們的刻苦精神所打動一番，而今日我突然又起了一種念頭，想到自己就要告別學生
時代了，多少有些不是滋味。
朱家花園真是意外的收獲，這一座精雕細琢的“西南大觀園”我竟渾然不知，幸虧在燕子洞
買了導游圖。回昆明倒不很順利，由於沒坐直達車，那車到了通海，便把我們轉到另一輛車上，而
那車不走高速，開呀開呀，經過一個大湖，以為是滇池，後來查地圖應是撫仙湖。眼見天黑了，車
卻開進了山裡，坐在身邊的那家伙忿忿不平，還與司機鬥了幾句嘴。好不容易到了昆明，9點20，
但已無公交車，我只得打的到了火車站，依舊住工行招待所，但負責往電腦裡輸信息的那廝居然霸
占著男浴室洗個沒完，她此舉可謂一舉兩得，我一則洗不了澡，二則也拿不回身份證。索性批了接
待我的那警衛一頓，但他態度倒很好，使我無法繼續發怒，這可惡而可愛的昆明人。
在去石林的火車上，便有旅行社來進行宣傳，我本想自己去的，不過最終還是選擇參加了一
日游。絕大多數人都去大疊水，選擇乃古石林的只有我們五個人，這樣的人數真的恰恰好，導游王
麗艷，讓我們叫她王阿詩瑪（注53：在撒尼語中，阿詩瑪就是對年輕女子的稱呼），是一位看上去
年紀不小的撒尼姑娘。由於人少，她便可以娓娓道來而不是呼前喝後了。同行的有一對新疆的老夫
妻，還有兩個同事，好像在四川工作，其中一個年輕人不知道南大也就罷了，居然問我河海大學是
不是改名叫南京大學了。但這並未改變游覽的美好，在欣賞了乃古石林、大石林、小石林後，還有
民族歌舞表演和茶藝表演。茶藝表演，四道茶，謂之迎客茶、普洱王茶、綠茶、花茶，五個人加上
為我們講解的小姐共處一室，門一關，細細品茗，當真清幽無比。
石林之旅緩解了我連日奔波的疲乏，我以平適的心情告別了這七彩的雲南，登上開往安順的
火車。
6 Safe & Successfully
Anshun, in Chinese, means safe and successfully, it’s the best wish to a
traveler, but my travel in Anshun is not as that its name means.
Not as Yunnan’s, Guizhou’s sky was gloomy all the time, not as Yunnan’s,
Guizhou’s mountains were more delicate, like Guilin’s. From Anshun to Zhijin
Cave, our bus was in mountain all along. I remembered the saying: “There’re
few days which are sunny; there’re few lands which are smooth.”
“If you had been to Huangshan Mountain, you needn’t go to others, and
there’re no other caves which are worth your going to if you had been to
Zhijin Cave.” Maybe this saying heard exaggerate, but Zhijin Cave, was really
good. It took you two hours and a half to walk through it. The guide looked
beautiful, but weak. She walked so slowly and her voice was so gentle. I
thought maybe she was very tired because she should lead 3 or 4 groups of
visitors a day and we’re the last group she lead today.
The next day, I went to Huangguoshu Falls and Dragon Palace, the men went
along with me were an old gentleman from Jiangxi, four Northeast men, and the
driver, who was also a native of Northeast, came here with his parents when he
was two. The driver said to us, “The Sun Island of Harbin is very famous in
China, but it’s not more beautiful than any small hill of Guizhou.” I
disliked Northeast men because they were so rough. But the gentleman knew
travel much, though not more than me, the places which he had been were more.
He told me Dragon & Tiger Mountain was a good place.
In Huangguoshu, I found what’s wrong with my camera, but I paid a high
price. And at last, I couldn’t go to Tianxing Bridge. But, in any case, I got
one day additional. How could I use it? First, I decided to give this day to
Guiyang or Sanjiang, but on second thoughts, Dragon & Tiger Mountain got the
chance.
Because of the price, my films were not enough, I went shopping for it, but
either in the supermarket or in the mall, there weren’t films on sale. Oh,
utterly detestable, ZhouJie lived in such a place, so dirty, so dilapidated, so
backward, even worse than Tianjin.
7貴陽兩地
無怪陳婷不會騎車，貴陽和重慶、青島一樣，已具備了發達國家的表像：馬路上絕少有自行
車。
那東北司機說，別看貴黃高速只是兩車道，已是貴州第二好的公路了，而最好的貴遵高速有
四個車道。而實際情況是：除了剛出貴陽的一段，絕大部分依舊是兩車道或三車道。遵義不愧是革
命名城，在這裡，我見到了久違的太陽。
在青龍洞上俯瞰鎮遠，還是座不錯的小城，但既已拜讀過聲討的文章，總覺得那吊腳樓看上
去有些別扭，似乎過於新了些。而河這邊從火車站到青龍洞這一路上則是標准的毫無特色的髒、
亂、差。
第三天的上午原本是打算休息的，但報紙上的報導使我到省博物館去瞧了潘玉良的畫展，知
道潘玉良，自然源於《畫魂》，但我今日方知她也和徐悲鴻一樣是南大（中大）的先師。
就要告別貴州了，灰蒙蒙的貴州著實未給我留下什麼好印像，總覺得要比雲南差了一個檔次。但
造型獨特的貴陽火車站卻令人耳目一新，甚至感覺像一座機場，站台雖破，但其上卻赫然掛著天津鐘
表廠出的時鐘，令人感到一絲親切。
8 Half a Day in Liuzhou
3:00,the train arrived in Liuzhou, I had to wait in the ticket room till
morning. Liuzhou, just as what the weather forecast said, was also cloudy.
Yufeng Hill and Liu Marquis Park were the places where old people did
exercises. Standing among them, I felt unfit.
Near Yufeng Hill, I saw a beautiful girl, who was a pupil with a bag on her
shoulder, knelt on the ground. In front of her was a piece of paper on the
ground, on which wrote that her family was very poor and, what’s more, her
elder brother died on work. And, not far from her, was another pupil, a boy,
did the same thing, but he wrote on the ground by chalk himself, so lots of men
came to see what he did. Just like before, I sympathized them indeed but
without giving them anything.
Dule Cliff, not as the former two, there’re no old here, because there
were even no visitor. I felt so awkward that I didn’t climb the hill, just
walked around, and then turned back to the railway station.
9煙雨桂林
我實在是太累了，在從柳州到桂林的火車上，著實猛睡了一把。
桂林，山中有城，城中有山。安頓好住宿，先去像鼻山。在這裡，電視台正在拍少兒節目，
可嘆小男孩和小女孩的天性被攝像機遮蓋得蕩然無存，在NG了若干次後終於為導演大人認可，真不
知這片子是拍給誰看的。
回到旅館，打聽漓江一日游，是包括陽朔的，便欣然報了名，如此，又可以擠出一天去靈渠
了。次日，天空瓢著細細的雨絲，導游說，這也不要緊，不是說什麼北京（沒聽清）、夜上海、霧
重慶、雨桂林嗎，漓江煙雨，別有特色。坦言之，我不喜歡這個讓我們管她叫“顧狗肉（注54：狗
肉，桂林話，“朋友”的意思）”的導游，年紀大且胖，這倒不是主要原因，而是她言語中總透著
一種盛氣凌人的味道，似乎在她眼中，游客都是如此無知。其實，你既為桂林的導游，對桂林的了
解程度當然比普通游客高了，這是很自然的事，何必或何苦非要用教師對學生說話的口吻與游客交
流呢？
漓江煙雨或許是有名的，但我卻情願是個晴天，總覺得這陰雨蒙蒙的景像是打了折的，饒是
如此，從開船後1小時直到午飯，我始終是亢奮的。說准確些，今日這漓江就如一幅天下聞名的水
墨畫，原先是只聞其名，今朝終得一睹芳容，心下雖隱隱覺得似乎不過如此，臉上卻是絕無不屑之
情。
到了陽朔，我們被換到了另一輛車上，而那輛車上的一幫東北人（又是可惡的東北人）對我
們的到來頗為不滿，開始指責他們的馬導，而馬、顧二導也軟磨硬泡地與他們周旋，想起在玉龍雪
山和石林的一日游，覺得雲南的旅游業與黔、桂相比，竟是如此之規範。
又結識了一位老先生，居然是南京人，此次來桂林是看他在此工作的兒子，他向我介紹了桂
林一處專賣工藝品的地方，還有心和我一同回寧，但我尚要到江西一行，故謝絕之。
來之前在《中國旅游報》上讀到讀者批評九鄉和雲南民族村的“逼婚”行為，便有了警惕，
而在雲南卻沒有遇到過，第一次遭此“艷禍”是在龍宮，不過善良的布依姑娘接受了我們的退婚請
求，而苗人則不，在大榕樹，黑洞洞的苗寨管叫你雁過拔毛，而在“世外桃源”，只要你略一遲
疑，定叫苗女生擒了去。有人說這是民俗，有人說這是庸俗，其實，關鍵還在於財禮費，而仔細想
想，這些姑娘掙這點錢也是不易的。
看來我注定要領略“雨桂林”的風采了，欣賞過蘆笛岩、七星岩的洞中奇景，雨也正式下起
來了。難道我竟被雨澆昏了頭？居然花15元進了廣師大。（注55：所謂“靖江王府”，其所在就
是廣西師範大學的校園，若從王府正門進入，是要買門票的，而廣師大校門前盡管也有售票的牌
子，但直接往裡走是沒有人管的，但這些情況我當時並不知道）而登上疊彩山，四下真可謂“白茫
茫厚地高天”。壞運氣並未到此為止，第三天從靈渠、李宗仁故居回來，天竟晴了，思前想後，終
於沒有再去爬疊彩山。
從桂林到興安，一個半小時的車程，也配有服務小姐，她看來還真是個實習生，將到興安說
送客詞時，居然忘了詞而啞在那裡，真令人忍俊不禁。
李宗仁的故居可謂真正的“人去樓空”，人固然不在了，家具也沒多少，空空如也的房子就
這樣空空如也著。
從疊彩山到廣師大，因為公交車改道，我不得不步行了一段，而這一段所見的漓江才真正讓
我感到了她的美。陰沉的天氣，疲憊的身心，竟使我在兩天的游覽中始終沒有真正找到美感。
這一回進廣師大可不用交錢了，堂而皇之地走了進去，從而更為昨日的行為後悔。先在教室
裡看《體壇周報》，不一會兒竟被告之教學樓要鎖門，難道廣師大的學生晚上都不上自習？看了一
會兒籃球賽，這幫人也真夠可以的，我坐在那足有十分鐘，雙方你來我往，竟沒進一個球；又去看
兩個女生練功，不禁想若有哪個女生在南大的草坪上像她們這樣扭來扭去，會是什麼情形。最後，
欣賞了一會兒乒乓球，廣師大學生的乒乓球水平臭得真是可以了。
如果說此次旅行就此結束，似乎也不為過，江西不過是順便一玩。坐在候車室裡，想想大
理、麗江、石林，似乎是很遙遠的事了。我即將回到現實，我注定要回到現實。
10 Hero City & Porcelain Capital
Just as Nanjing, there’re travel buses in Nanchang Railway Station, but
when I arrived at the former residence of ZhuDe, it’s closed. I had no idea
but to go to Nanchang Uprising Museum. Then Badashanren Museum, after finishing
visiting it, I asked a girl looked like ZhangJie how I could go back, she gave
me the answer and we took the No.20 and No.27 bus together, but she didn’t go
to the railway station.
In the train from Nanchang to Hangzhou, there’re a husband who looked like
HeJian and his wife sat toward me, an old lady sat in left with me and a boy
right. HeJian went to Yiwu to work as a laborer, to my surprise, the boy also
went there to look for a job, and he was only 19.
Though I had passed through Yingtan some times, it’s still strange to me,
as I almost never made a plan to go there. However, I was now in this place. In
the hostel, I found TJTV could be received and from it I knew Tianjin Female
Volleyball Team had kept their position in the league match, it’s a piece of
good news.
Going to Dragon & Tiger Mountain, I had nothing prepared for. I saw
there’re buses to Dragon & Tiger Mountain or Tianshi Palace. I just got in a
bus to Tianshi Palace by chance, but according to the map I bought a little
latter, it’s right.
Leaving Tianshi Palace, I came to the bamboo raft dock, but at that moment,
there’re no other travelers there, so I must wait. Lucky, after awhile, came a
group of travelers from Nanchang, the leader of them was a lady looked like
YangDong-mei. She bargained with the manager, but at last she bought the
tickets and asked for a guide.
I sat at the first row, when I didn’t know the guide sat in the front. The
guide, Miss Zou, named ZouXiu-ying, told us nit only the scenery but also
something about Tianshi Palace, but these Nanchang men, made a lot of noise. I
disliked them, and, I thought “Xiu-ying” was too common as a girl’s name.
After a while, the men who sat behind said that they couldn’t hear what the
guide said and let her sat behind. It’s very normal, but a woman sat with me
said that I should change place with them because they spend money to ask for
the guide. I disliked her this sentence especially. Finally, Miss Zou sat in
the middle.
At noon, we arrived in Wuwen Village, the name meant there’re no mosquito
there all the time. In this village, YangDong-mei hesitated that if they should
have lunch here. I was hungry so I advised her eat something here and persuaded
her at last, so the boss of the restaurant made two-fried dish for me and I
paid only ten yuan. Miss Zou, she wanted to have lunch with me at first, but
she couldn’t reject Nanchang men’s invite. I thought that she couldn’t enjoy
herself facing with so may people.
After lunch, we continued our navigation, but the new boat-men asked us to
sit in two rafts. Ten men first and others second. Then ten Nanchang men got on
the first raft, but on the second raft there’re only six chairs and we were
seven men including the guide. A young Nanchang man was so foolish that he let
Miss Zou sat on his chair so I could sat with her. Her loud-speaker was not so
good that it seemed that she only speak to me. I knew the Nanchang men felt not
well but I felt happy.
Fairy Celestial Crag was our terminus. In front of the entrance, there was
a pavilion on the cliff in which people could see the suspended coffin on the
other side. Nanchang men let Miss Zou lead them up. As a guide, she should
agree right now, but with times of requisitions, she just walk up behind these
men, and I followed her. When she climbed to the place not far from the
pavilion, some men were already there. She stooped and said, “Could you see
the coffin? I think I needn’t go up.” I thought about something suddenly and
asked her, “Do you fear high?” “Yeah, let’s go down.” I went back with her
and followed with YangDong-mei, she was fearful also.
In Fairy Celestial Crag, many men didn’t know how it looked like a woman,
and Miss Zou, were too shy to say directly, YangDong-mei asked me also, I knew
because I had seen the brief in the entrance just now. After a hesitation, I
said to her, “The crag looked like the pudenda of a woman who just had a bath
and without clothes.” I saw she looked a little shy, maybe this kind of
landscape was not very fit to Chinese people.
But YangDong-mei, when she knew I was a student of NJU, began to ask me
some questions about colledge as her son would take in the College Gate Test
this year.
After watching the suspended coffin performance, our travel was over. In
fact, I should thank these Nanchang men, without them, I didn’t know when I
can get on the raft, let alone the guide.
On my way back, I quarreled with some people in the bus. “Jiangxi men are
too bad.” I said to myself for to others in my seat.
In the hostel, I knew TEDA and Sichuan tied at 2-2, foolish JiangJin! And
at night, the“Tell It Like It”（注56：《實話實說》）, LvDao, WangYing and a
man I forgot his name, had walked by their feet along the boundary from Guangxi
to Liaoning, it’s a program of GDTV, people discussed with each other, but I
thought, in any case, they’re brave.
Jingdezhen, I went to Hutian Kiln and Procelain Museum, then went to
Nanmentou by bus, turned left, I saw a road sign wrote “Xiangji Up Lane”.
Yeah, I got it! It’s so smooth!
In the train from Jingdezhen to Nanjing, I saw a girl who I thought was a
student of the department of industrial and commercial management, but I
didn’t call her.
11余音繞梁
往事如歌，余音繞梁而三日不絕也。
這二十余日，我顛沛流離在祖國的西南角，為的是什麼？目的何在？這一問題似乎比為何考
研還要難答，也許我為的就是這樣的顛沛流離，或許便如呂島所說，出行就是為了體味孤獨。
不是嗎？在建水、在桂林，兩次往家打電話，這在原先幾次出行中是沒有的，畢竟是單槍匹
馬的23天呀。
“有了錢去玩，和學生時代這種窮玩，絕對不一樣。”北京女士如是說。我尚未工作，尚未
嘗過有錢的滋味，不過可以看一看大連的空姐，她們可是利用休息日雙飛來麗江的呀，她們和我的
感受，或者說，我和她們的感受，怎麼會一樣呢？
很多人說我國導游的素質低，但在我看來，小張、王阿詩瑪、鄒小姐，還有燕子洞的、織金
洞的、龍宮的、山水園的、蘆笛岩的、七星岩的，都是很好的導游，誠然，她們不過初中畢業，讀
了兩三年旅游學校，甚至於只接受過一些培訓，但我以為她們的職業素養、敬業精神，相較於游客
的整體素質，實是大大的高了。
我時常在想，尤其是當我看到鄒小姐被那幫南昌人冷落在一旁一個人略顯憂郁的樣子，她們
的將來會怎樣？倘若干得很出色，會有什麼晉升的機會？或許當然我是多慮了，5年後，我還不知
道在哪呢，況且她人自有她人的生活方式。
西南的山水當然是秀美的，但是，在路上，經常可以見到“珍愛生命，遠離毒品”，“娶妻
不娶文盲女，嫁漢不嫁文盲漢”的標語；在昆明，在貴陽，在桂林，出了火車站便會有女人湊上來
問你玩不玩小姐；而幾乎在每一個景點，上至七旬老太，下至四、五歲的兒童，還有背上背著孩子
的婦女，搖尾乞憐地請你買她們的東西。這一切的一切，都表明在這美景的背後，有著更多沉重的
東西，而與之相比，23天西南之行所接觸到的人和事實是太膚淺了。
玉龍雪山、麗江古城，該是最好的景點了，然而，我更喜歡的是在從大理到麗江、巍山，從
昆明到建水，從安順到織金的車上見到的景色，這樣說，並無貶低雪山和古城的意思，只是我以
為，最美麗的風景，永遠，在路上。
（《山水西南》至此終）